Ismael: My enthiusiasm was dampened on my very first visit. I was carrying four helmets for my nephews as they all had motorbikes and I wanted to gift these to them. At the custom check a Pakistani manning the counter demanded that I leave two helmets there. I refused point blank, leading to a very unpleasant situation. Finally their officer came and he said, “oh leave him. He is a kashmiri. They are very devious people and he won’t pay you anything. Let him go. I visited Pakistan twice since. The itinerary included Muzafarabad and I am convinced that Pakistan is not for us. Muzafarabad is only as big as one corner of Srinagar. In fact if India had started this Srinagar Muzafarabad bus service ten years back, terrorism would have died a natural death. Thousands of people who were dying to go to Pakistan would have seen for themselves the situation there. They would have returned disillusioned and terrorism would have died a long back.